The Conflicted Legacy of Hannah Arendt
By MARK GLANVILLE
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This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.
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There is no question as to the provenance of any of the wines to be found on the list at the Four Seasons restaurant. At the top of every page, in italics, is a proclamation that reads, for example, “Julian Niccolini’s Selection of American Wines.” Mr. Niccolini is co-owner of what may be Manhattan’s most awe-invoking restaurant (architecturally, culinarily, and monetarily); the wine list there has been an intimate concern of his since he developed his palate at the elbow of his late mentor, Paul Kovi, who co-owned the restaurant for more than two decades.
By MARK GLANVILLE
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By GEORGE WILLIS
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By MATTHEW RICE
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By CAROLINE McCAUGHEY
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By ROSS ANDERSON
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By MARIO NAVES
|There is no question as to the provenance of any of the wines to be found on the list at the Four Seasons restaurant. At the top of every page, in italics, is a proclamation that reads, for example, “Julian Niccolini’s Selection of American Wines.” Mr. Niccolini is co-owner of what may be Manhattan’s most awe-invoking restaurant (architecturally, culinarily, and monetarily); the wine list there has been an intimate concern of his since he developed his palate at the elbow of his late mentor, Paul Kovi, who co-owned the restaurant for more than two decades.
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